Let’s start with a little Old West history and then walk
that into a mighty pragmatic drill-set that trains sensitivity, sensory deprivation,
and overall resourcefulness.
Our first stop is a little horse-breaking practice that
will upset horse-whisperers everywhere.
In the wild and wooly old days horses were mighty
useful companions and work-mates, but, and this may come as a surprise to many,
horses don’t pop out of the womb with a hankering to be ridden.
In our best-case scenario, a young horse is acclimated
to people, raised around people, seen other horses ridden, and even then, the initial
acceptance of bit, saddle and rider is still a slow process.
This rider-acceptance is all the more recalcitrant in
a freshly captured mustang, a wild adult horse that has not been socialized to humans
let alone fostered any unfulfilled dreams of losing its liberty and having a
curiously garbed ape perched atop its back.
Compassionate “gentling” takes some time. Gentling is
the preferred method, but on a working ranch and/or working drive, time was not
always yours for the asking, so “breaking” was used over “gentling.”
We’ve all seen variations of horse-breaking in Western
films. The bronco-buster heads into the corral, walks a horse down with a lasso
and then hops atop, spends a few seconds before getting tossed, then repeats
the process ad nauseum until fatigue
or begrudging acceptance is won. [William Wyler’s 1958 film The Big Country has an excellent depiction
of this dogged process.]
But even breaking as just described takes time. When
time is of the essence, some bronco-busters would resort to the “rough break.”
In a rough break, the buster ropes the horse, chokes
it down [yep, you heard me right], once down the animal is saddled and
blindfolded. The buster steps atop the green bronc and strips off the blindfold,
digs in with spurs, slams home a quirt and rides it out.
Oh, he’s still tossed, but good bronc-busters say that
it only takes about three rides with the rough-break method and then the horse
can be turned over to the cowboy.
Now, I’m not a card-carrying friend to PETA, and not condoning
rough break methods, but I am here to say we can modify rough-breaking for our own
combat training.
Let’s have a look-see.
·
Hit the mat and have your “bronc” don a
blindfold.
·
Position an opponent before him—both are
in short-offense [starting from the knees to take hard unprotected takedowns
out of the picture.]
·
Start with cohesion, that is, collar and elbow,
over-under, whatever “coming to grips” is your cuppa tea.
·
Blow the whistle and let her buck!
·
If when the bronc is on the bottom—call “Freeze!”
and remove the blindfold.
·
Then call “Go!”
·
From the now visually aware bottom position
the bronc tries to get back in the winning game or at least survive until the clock
dictates.
·
The bronc’s goal is to win via submission,
or at the very least not find oneself in a pinned bottom position.
·
Extra Credit:
Use the rough-break number of three rides to really get the most out of the experience.
Rough
Breaking for Street-Work
·
You can, of course, use the prior drill
but switch the grappling arsenal for one of ripping, striking and tearing as long
as appropriate gear is used.
·
To raise the stakes, take it to the feet
but…
·
Start from cohesion, a hands-on position
of some sort and minus out hard strikes. [If partners agree and are geared
appropriately, open hand slaps are a nice addition.]
·
I also find using the rough-break protocol
for muffling an “X” Weapon [knife or firearm on the person] is another useful approach.
·
Again, if/when the bronc is clearly in a position
of “Yeah, that ain’t looking too good”
call “Freeze!” remove the blindfold and
allow them to work their way out of the riddle.
It’s easy to see that all forms of rough-breaking, whether
it be true bronc-busting or consenting humans scuffling with one another there
are bruises to be accrued, but...some mighty hard skills won.
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